Growing Ornamental Gourds
Ornamentals are just as easy to grow as zucchinis. Ornamental seed look like summer squash seed although different kinds can have different size seeds. They germinate well without soaking. Ornamentals mature in about 90 days from planting, so count backwards from when you want them to choose a planting time. In the Carolina Piedmont, a late April to early May planting will produce a crop by Independence Day, and you can celebrate by planting more for fall harvest. Plant hills about 4 feet apart in rows four feet apart. Plant three seeds to the hill, about half an inch deep. Thin to two. If you are planting from a pack marked "mixed," leave seedlings of various sizes. Different sizes often show different kinds.Growers rarely trellis ornamentals. Because they are small and light, there is no need to keep them from settling into the soil.
Fertilizing ornamentals sparks little controversy. Work about a quarter cup of 10-10-10 in a ring around the hill at planting. You can work another quarter cup of fertilizer in around the roots about 30 days after planting.
During the growing season, your main job is fighting bugs. Ornamentals suffer more damage than hardshells. Aphids (watch for ants), cucumber beetles, slugs and squash bugs eat ornamentals. Worst of all are squash vine borers. By the time, you know they're there, your gourd vine isn't. Encourage root growth at joints, and use Thiodan or Sevin on the vine near the hill.
Harvesting at the right time is the first key to curing ornamentals. Pick too soon and the gourds rot. Pick too late and sunshine fades the bright colors. Now comes the secret: Test for maturity by gently squeezing the gourd. Start at the end of the vine where the baby gourds are, and work your way back to the hill where the most mature are. If you avoid arrest for baby gourd molesting or other forms of insanity, you'll eventually begin to notice a point where the gourd is harder. It is more shell than flesh inside. Cut it from the vine. Curing is the gradual movement of water from inside to outside. Don't seal ornamentals. Varnishing or shellacking, as many vendors do, seals in water and dooms the gourd to rot. Polish with liquid floor wax if desired.
Ornamentals are just as easy to grow as zucchinis. Ornamental seed look like summer squash seed although different kinds can have different size seeds. They germinate well without soaking. Ornamentals mature in about 90 days from planting, so count backwards from when you want them to choose a planting time. In the Carolina Piedmont, a late April to early May planting will produce a crop by Independence Day, and you can celebrate by planting more for fall harvest. Plant hills about 4 feet apart in rows four feet apart. Plant three seeds to the hill, about half an inch deep. Thin to two. If you are planting from a pack marked "mixed," leave seedlings of various sizes. Different sizes often show different kinds.Growers rarely trellis ornamentals. Because they are small and light, there is no need to keep them from settling into the soil.
Fertilizing ornamentals sparks little controversy. Work about a quarter cup of 10-10-10 in a ring around the hill at planting. You can work another quarter cup of fertilizer in around the roots about 30 days after planting.
During the growing season, your main job is fighting bugs. Ornamentals suffer more damage than hardshells. Aphids (watch for ants), cucumber beetles, slugs and squash bugs eat ornamentals. Worst of all are squash vine borers. By the time, you know they're there, your gourd vine isn't. Encourage root growth at joints, and use Thiodan or Sevin on the vine near the hill.
Harvesting at the right time is the first key to curing ornamentals. Pick too soon and the gourds rot. Pick too late and sunshine fades the bright colors. Now comes the secret: Test for maturity by gently squeezing the gourd. Start at the end of the vine where the baby gourds are, and work your way back to the hill where the most mature are. If you avoid arrest for baby gourd molesting or other forms of insanity, you'll eventually begin to notice a point where the gourd is harder. It is more shell than flesh inside. Cut it from the vine. Curing is the gradual movement of water from inside to outside. Don't seal ornamentals. Varnishing or shellacking, as many vendors do, seals in water and dooms the gourd to rot. Polish with liquid floor wax if desired.
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